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Monday, January 15, 2007

The Sacred Wonders of the World

Planning an out-of-the-country pilgrimage this year? Then why don’t y’all have a seat and take our tour. By Aldrin F. T.

The temple at Al-Karnak (quite fittingly named ‘Karnak Temple’) is first on our list. Comfortably set on the banks of the River Nile north of Luxor, it was once called Ipet Sut ("the most venerated place") in ancient times. And unsurprisingly, this epithet still very much applies until today, for the temple is the leading attraction in al-Karnak. In fact, for most people the temple is al-Karnak itself. Who can contest? The temple is twice the size than the inhabited parts of the village. But hey, nobody’s complained in 4000 years, right?

Though probably no longer revered in a religious way today, this temple turned open-air museum is the largest ancient religious site in the world, and ranks second to the Giza Pyramids as the most visited ancient site in the whole of Egypt.

The temple complex consists of four main parts, of which only one is accessible for tourists and the general public: the Precinct of Amon-Re. This is the largest of the precincts of the temple complex, and is dedicated to Amon-Re (or Amun-Ra), the chief god of the Theban Triad. The other three are the precincts of Mut (mother goddess of the triad), Montu (son of Amon-Re and Mut), and Akhenaten (dismantled after the death of its builder Akhenaten/Amenhotep IV).

parnassos_top _delphiMoving away from Africa, just north of Egypt, is Greece at the southern tips of Balkan Europe. At this time and age, who wouldn’t recognise the well-preserved temples of Greece? …the oh-so-popular Parthenon of Athena, the convent-ish spaces of Artemis’s temple at Vravrona, and of course—our second stop—the Temple of Apollo at Delphi’s. “Dramatic, primitive, it's a guy's temple.”

The most popular function of the site, however, was the oracle that presided and prophesied in it. The Pythia she was called. She. A girly girl, a woman. She was widely credited with channelling the god’s spirit as she mumbled her prophecies, granting her a prominence unusual for a woman in macho territory (quite interesting to note, though, that the site was formerly dedicated to the cthonic goddess Gaia before Apollo’s advent). During the period between its establishment in the 8th century BCE and its last recorded response in 393 CE, the Delphic Oracle was the most prestigious and authoritative oracle in the Greek world. Talk about being on top! Other than a whole wardrobe of originally designed chiton gowns and a comfy cushion to place on her tripod, I bet she even had her own inter-Mediterranean fans club. Her advice was divine and everybody knew it. I’d even dare say it wasn’t really Apollo who made the shrine so popular, rather it was her prophesying, ethylene gas-infused booty sitting atop that holy brazen three-legged chair. You go, girl… err, ma’am.

West of Greece is the boot-shaped peninsula of Italy, where the oldest important building in the world still stands with {almost} all of its original materials still intact: The Pantheon. From the Greek word of the same name, meaning "…of all the Gods", the Pantheon is a building in Rome which was originally built as a temple to the seven deities of the seven planets, but which has been a Christian church since the 7th century. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, with masses still celebrated within its walls today, particularly on important Catholic days of obligation, and even for weddings. Indeed, a fine example of sacred space that was never put to waste.

Moving north from the Mediterranean into the British Isles, 8 miles north of Salisbury in the English county of Wiltshire, stands probably one of the most popular prehistoric structures in the world: Stonehenge. Debated for years over its original purpose, from Neopagan assumptions of Druidic use to theories of being an astronomical calendar (not to mention, folktales of being Merlin’s masterpiece and the über clichéd “the Devil made it”), this majestic arrangement of Neolithic megaliths has earned itself the deserved name of “most debated site ever”.

Starting 1905 when the Ancient Order of Druids enacted the first recorded ceremony recreating ancient practices, the place has attracted pilgrimages of all sorts since then. And even until today, those following pagan or New Age beliefs still visit this site for solstices and equinoxes. But of course, having a spirituality built around these Jurassic bricks can’t scratch the fact that it was made thousands of years before the Celtic druids’ arrival into the island (and trust me, they weren’t into stones), even more millennia before Merlin’s name, and that a guy with a goatee riding his pitchfork would get off his way to align gargantuan stones for people to measure solstices and equinoxes. Well, whatever its makers’ original intentions were, whether it was really deemed ‘hallowed ground’ or not back then, we cannot deny that lives are being built around this place today and that alone makes this place sacred in itself.

Enough of Europe! Delving deep into Asia reveals that an enormous body of water can also be an intimate goddess: the Ganges River, or for the locals ‘The Holy Mother Ganga’. Stretching across northern India and Bangladesh, the river feeds one of the highest densities of human population in the world – a humbling yet equally eco-hazardous fact.

It is worshipped by Hindus all around the country and personified as a goddess, being offered their food, flowers, and even their dearly departed. Hindu belief holds that bathing in the river on certain occasions causes the forgiveness of sins and helps attain salvation. Many people would even travel from distant places to immerse the ashes of their kin in the waters of the Ganga; believing that immersing the corpse would send the ashes straight to paradise. It is also believed that drinking water from the Ganga with one's last breath will assure oneself a ticket to peace in the afterlife. Adding up to that, it is known that a vial of water from the Ganga is kept in the household by almost every Hindu faithful. Considering the size of India’s population, I’m surprised the goddess hasn’t dehydrated after 5000 years of unforgiving usage.

The river is so revered that even in the West, in Rome's Piazza Navona, a famous sculpture called Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (“fountain of the four rivers”) has the Ganga personified as a bearded god riding the waves. Too bad, the sculptor (Gian Lorenzo Bernini) forgot to interview Hindu correspondents before giving the river goddess a 4-inch beard.

Emptying into the Bay of Bengal and into the Indian ocean, the path of the river goddess brings us to the Indonesian island of Java where an ancient beauty still stands: the Borobudur. The Borobudur is a Buddhist stupa (religious monument) from the Mahayana tradition, and is the largest Buddhist monument on earth. It was built between 750 and 850 CE by the Javanese rulers of the Sailendra dynasty, where for centuries, was lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth until 1814 when it was rediscovered. The reason why this magnificent monument was deserted still remains a mystery.

Experts have proposed that this stupa complex may have actually been a gigantic textbook for not-so-well versed Buddhists. As they performed their pilgrimage, circling the monument, they passed walls ornamented with illustrations telling of the life of Buddha Shakyamuni (Siddhartha Gautama) and the principles of his teaching. Wouldn’t it have been spectacular to have had one of those ‘temple textbooks’ back in preschool?

Until today Borobudur remains hallowed ground; a place of prayer and pilgrimage, stretching even into local folklore, where it is believed to be good luck to rub the finger and toe of a particular Buddha. Too many pilgrims + too few buddhas = an enlightening tickling experience.

From the south we trek north into China where the Temple of Heaven (Tiāntán) sits amidst urban Beijing in Xuanwu District. The site is, in fact, the grandest of the four great Beijing temples being a complex of 3 separate Taoist buildings: [1] The Earthly Mount, [2] The House of Heavenly Lord, and [3] The Hall of Annual Prayer. The Hall of Annual Prayer is the largest of the three and was often visited by the Emperor for good harvests. It was so revered in imperial times that some even say Chinese Christians regarded this monument as a tribute to the Christian Deity.

Going east of China points us to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ – Japan – where their highest mountain is also an internationally revered place. Who doesn’t know Mt. Fuji? Postcards, websites, books, manga, and-definitely-Godzilla Vs. Ultraman; every single reference to Japan would have to include this sleeping snow-capped volcano. I’m tellin’ ya, Mrs Fujiyama has missed so much of her celebrity status ever since she decided to hit the hay.

Not many realise, though, that the size 3776.24 superstar is divine for the Japanese. Not surprising really, considering the Japanese’s reverence for the land. It is believed that the first ascent was in 663 CE by an anonymous monk and has been barred to women since then until the Meiji Era. A torii near its summit marks holy ground for Shintoists and a circle of flags at its base make it a sanctuary of peace.

Last stop: the Americas, where the world's largest monument and largest Pre-Columbian pyramid by volume-The Great Pyramid of Cholula-is nested. The temple-pyramid complex, located in Cholula (Puebla, Mexico), was built over many generations from the 2nd century BCE to the early 16th century, and was dedicated to probably the most popular Aztec god of them all – Quetzalcoatl (“the Feathered Serpent”). Ironically, the pyramid’s creation is attributed not to the feathered god but to some giant named Xelhua (apparently the soloist of the famous Titan boyband “The Seven Aztec Giants”).

According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is in fact the largest pyramid as well as the largest monument ever constructed anywhere in the world, almost one third larger than that of the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt (albeit the latter is higher).

Again, another example of reused sacred space, the Aztec-temple a la pyramid is surmounted by a Christian church. This is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (Church of Our Lady of the Remedies), also known as the Santuario de la Virgen de los Remedios (Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Remedies) which was built in 1594 by no other than (*drum roll*) the Spanish Conquistadors. Surprisingly after years and years of conflict, the pyramid/temple/church is shared today by both Catholic pilgrims and celebrants of indigenous rites.

So, there. That’s pretty much it for ‘Sacred Travel Time’ this month. Have a nice pilgrimage!
o Temple of Apollo (Ruins): Photograph by/from Kathael
o The Pantheon: Photograph by/from Martin Olsson, 2 May 2005. [Wikipedia]
o Stonehenge, 2005: Photograph by/from Andrew Dunn, 21 Jun. 2005 [Wikipedia]
o Ganges River: Photograph by/from John Hill, 1973 [Wikipedia]
o Borobudur: Photograph by/from Jan-Pieter Nap, 2004 [Wikipedia]
o Hall of Annual Prayer, Temple of Heaven: Photograph by/from Saad Akhtar [Wikipedia]
o Great Pyramid of Cholula: Photograph by/from Hajor, 7 Sept. 2003 [Wikipedia]
o Karnak Temple: Photograph by/from Greenwich Meantime http://wwp.greenwichmeantime.com/images/africa/karnak-temple.jpg


About the Author: ALDRIN F.T. is a culinary arts major turning psychology student. Keen on linguistics, tireless in philosophical musings. Codeswitches uncontrollably from The Queen’s English to Cowboy Twang, all the time. Enjoys the Dixie Chicks, Riverdance, and good ol’ football. The 20-year old sees no borders between “mundane life” and “spiritual life” – to him, it’s all the same muzak. The boy finds spirituality in every space he considers significant in his life, not limited to chapels and groves. The workplace, the school gym, the kitchen, even the bathroom. He’s quite comfortable with both his Pagan and Christian heritage explaining why he has never felt any drive to leave one or the other. Dvovorie, Russians call it. Serious syncretic not fluffy eclectic.

© 2007 Manggagaway E-magazine. Articles may be distributed freely on the condition that all accreditation is acknowledged, no part is altered and this notice is attached and the website:
http://manggagaway-central.blogspot.com is included. ~ Thank you

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